Sis Boom Jenny dress in Nani Iro

While I tend to stock up on big 4 patterns (especially when they are on sale), the ones which I find a real joy in sewing are those by indie pattern designers.

My latest obsession is from Sis Boom, a collaboration between Jennifer Paganelli, a fabric designer, and pattern maker Carla Crim, a.k.a the Scientific Seamstress. The designs themselves aren't super avant garde and tend to veer toward simple feminine lines that flatter everyone.

The most popular pattern is the Jamie dress, and I was this close to getting it. However, I've already sewn up similar silhouettes (e.g. McCall's 5094, Vogue 8380) and was ready to try something different. Enter the Jenny!

"Jenny is just as at home on the deck of a cruise ship as she is in her own backyard. This long awaited design is named for one of our favourite fashionista followers. The gathered front and back are joined by flat panels, which conceal a zipper on one side. This versatile style can be kept sleek and simple in the form of a sleeveless dress or top, or design options can be applied to give more coverage and/or detail. Two sleeve options are included: A crisp cap sleeve and a drapey flutter sleeve. In addition, a sweet ruffle can be added to the neckline to make for a stunning collar."

Many things I love about the Jenny, or Scientific Seamstress / Sis Boom patterns in general:

1. Caters to a wiiiiiide range of sizes! For the Jenny, it comes in XS (0-2) to 3X (24W - 26W) with variations for cup sizes A - D, and even suggestions to cut differently at the waistband and skirt lengths for different heights from 5'0 onwards.

2. Variations to one pattern. 

The wavy stripy red fabric reminds me of when I've had one too many tequila shots. 

Where can I get it?

Sleeves or no sleeves? Flutter or cap? 

There are also options to have a higher or more modest neckline, like for the one I have sewn. The standard neckline cuts a deeper. The ruffles along the neckline are not my kinda thing, but I would likely add some for of sleeves the next time I sew this (sleeve patterns are also included).

3. Helps you to save on paper! You know how for most pdf patterns, you would need to print at least 40 pages and navigate through nested sizes or worse, overlapping pieces? Not so here! Only the bodice pattern is included, but there are instructions on how to cut and attach the skirt pieces, which are just 2 pieces of gathered rectangles. And and and ... there are no nested sizes! The pdf file is over 200 pages long, each size has its own dedicated pages so you only need to print and cut out your own size. So, for the basic sleeveless ruffle-less bodice, I only needed to print out 6 pages.

4. Very clear instructions but the finish is super.

Take a look at the inside of the dress!

Not a single exposed seam! I had the entire dress lined instead of just the bodice because the fabric I've used can be quite sheer under natural lighting and seriously if I am able to get around the zipper issue, this could totally be made into a reversible dress.

Some more views of the dress:

Breaking out my new heels. It's been a while since I'd bought new shoes!

Apologies about the wrinkles! I don't like ironing #sorrynotsorry

Trying to look bigger than my 5'-nothing self 

Do note that the standard pattern calls for a gathered / dirndl-styled skirt, but I didn't find it appropriate in this case because the fabric itself is already double-layered (double gauze) and together with the lining, the skirt would be too poufy in the midriff area. Not so flattering.

The next most important reason is because as much as I love Nani Iro, it is quite pricey compared with your usual cottons. Hence I had to be very strategic in placing the pattern pieces to make sure there was as little wastage as possible. In the end, this dress was squeezed out of 1.5m of fabric.

The skirt pattern I've used here is just your usual standard A-line. Mine is from McCall's 5972, my trusty sheath pattern, so it's a little more fitted than say, the skirt from a Sewaholic Cambie. I suppose either would be fine as long as the waist circumference matches.

Can we just pause for a moment and appreciate the gorgeousness of the fabric?

"Dancing butterflies

gentle wind on the petals

makes a pretty dress"

- Haiku by Miss GZ

Double gauze is amazing to work with and one of my favourite fabrics for the impossibly humid and hot climate where I live. It's essentially two pieces of light gauze tacked together at regular intervals (Japanese technology!) so it doesn't trap the heat in but is opaque enough so you don't usually need a lining. I have added one because I like the professional finish of lined dresses, and in this case because it's white, it does tend to be a little see-through especially since the skirt is slim-fit. The lining I have used is a white cotton lawn which becomes incredibly soft after washing.

You can get the Jenny pattern from here.